Week of September 23, 2002

Chesnutt mantra: Unity

The officers of the American Yarn Spinners Association — with a little flair added to the photo during production — are (L-R) Werner Bieri, president and CEO of Buhler Quality Yarns Corp., Jefferson, GA, second vice president; Fred A. Jackson, president of American & Efird, Inc., Mount Holly, NC, treasurer; Stephen G. Dobbins, president, treasurer and chief operating officer of Carolina Mills, Inc., Maiden, NC, first vice president; and James W. Chesnutt, president and chief executive officer of National Spinning Co., Inc., Washington, NC.
Photo by Devin Steele/Illustration by Wes Chaney

By Devin Steele

WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS, WV — James W. Chesnutt, newly elected president of the American Yarn Spinners Association (AYSA), put out a familiar call for unity during the group’s 35th annual meeting at The Greenbrier here this month.

“Certainly, some of the issues are not easy to reach consensus on among every segment of this industry,” said Chesnutt, president and chief executive officer of National Spinning Co., Inc., Washington, NC. “But we will work diligently over the next year to be certain that we can reach agreement and that we can come to Washington as a unified force. If we can do that, then we can be more successful in Washington.”

The unity mantra has been sung by various industry leaders in recent years, of course, but so far that goal has been something of a pipe dream. Divergence among various industry interests has occurred on several issues, particularly trade matters.

Certain measures within the Trade and Development Act of 2002 pitted several industry groups against each other, for instance. AYSA, it should be noted, did come together with other industry groups to reach a common position on the issue.

Grant Aldonas, under secretary of Commerce for International Trade, who addressed AYSA members, said he understands the reasons for the differences of opinion, but that on central themes, everyone has similar ideas.

“There’s no doubt that these are very challenging times. These guys are in agreement on that,” Aldonas told STN after his presentation, addressing the question of the government hearing a variety of opinions on certain matters. “Some market environments have changed. Some of that is driven by trade agreements, and a lot of it is driven by competition in the marketplace. But they recognize that they’re up to it. So on that central issue — if by what you mean is for the government to set the environment where they can compete — I think there’s a lot of unanimity.”

He added: “When you talk to people in the industry, most are looking at a level playing field being created. And that’s not about protection so much as it is ‘give us a chance to compete.’ When I look out at the world and see what the Chinese and the Pakistanis do to protect their market, you just can’t say that the playing field is level.”

Chesnutt, who called Aldonas “a friend of the industry,” also laid out more of his agenda. One of his goals is that AYSA’s stance is well-stated to negotiators of trade agreements, he said.

“The Congress has given the president TPA (trade promotion authority) and we know that there are some things that are going to be put on the table that will have an effect on our industry, and we want to be certain that we have input with those who are responsible for negotiating those agreements,” he said.

Chesnutt said he also desires to increase the group’s roster. “We need to make sure that the membership of this organization is supported by all those involved in yarn manufacturing in this country, and we will spend a lot of time working on those issues that can accomplish membership increases for the coming year,” he said.

Related to the implementation of trade rules and regulations, Chesnutt said he wants to “make sure that the voice of every segment of this industry is heard — spinners, throwsters, dyers, cotton, synthetics, whatever. We want to represent every voice that holds membership in the AYSA.”


Chesnutt succeeds Charles L. Little Jr., president of the LaFrance Division of Mount Vernon Mills, based in Greenville, SC.

Stephen G. Dobbins, president, treasurer and chief operating officer of Carolina Mills, Inc., Maiden, NC, was elected first vice president; and Werner Bieri, president and CEO of Buhler Quality Yarns Corp., Jefferson, GA, was elected second vice president.

Fred A. Jackson, president of American & Efird, Inc., Mount Holly, NC, was re-elected treasurer; and Michael S. Hubbard of Gastonia, NC, was re-elected executive vice president and secretary of the association.

Chesnutt received a bachelor of science degree from East Carolina University and completed the Young Executives Program at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill.

He began his career with Bank of America in 1963. In 1973, he moved to Harriet and Henderson Yarns, Inc. in Henderson, NC, where he served as vice president. He has served at National Spinning Co., Inc. since 1997 in his current position.

Named to the association’s board of directors were: Bill Carstarphen, senior vice president of Pharr Yarns, Inc., McAdenville, NC; Daniel LaFar, president of Bowling Green Spinning, Bowling Green, SC; Bill Malloy, vice president of Cheraw Mills, Inc., Cheraw, SC; Allison Zollicoffer, vice president of sales of Harriet and Henderson Yarns, Inc., Henderson, NC; and Stewart Little, senior vice president of customer development for Unifi, Inc., Greensboro, NC.

In addition to the association’s three top elected officers, the treasurer and the retiring president, three members of the board were named to the Executive Committee. They were: Anderson D. Warlick, president, chief executive officer and chief operating officer of Parkdale Mills, Inc., Gastonia, NC; Bruce Lanier, Jr., president of Wehadkee Yarn Mills, Inc., West Point, GA; and Bill Malloy of Cheraw Yarn Mills, Inc.

NTA president sees harmony in merger

Week of September 23, 2002

Members expected to welcome KTA

Editor’s note: Following is a Q&A with Karl Spilhaus, president of the Northern Textile Association (NTA). Spilhaus answered questions submitted by STN Editor Devin Steele, in preparation for the group’s annual meeting Sept. 22-24 at Black Point Inn, Prouts Neck, Scarborough, ME.

STN: Please take us through the proposed merger of the Northern Textile Association and the Knitted Textile Association — how the idea came about, why it is necessary, how it will benefit both groups, amount of support from membership, etc.

Spilhaus: Members of the board of the Knitted Textile Association approached NTA in early 2002 to discuss the possibility of a merger. NTA has, since the late 1960s, represented the producers of warp-knit elastic. Many of those companies are also members of KTA. Also several members of KTA had recently become members of NTA’s Finishers Committee.

KTA’s membership was therefore familiar with the work that NTA does. The revenues from both organizations had been impacted by recent conditions in the textile industry, so a merger that could affect economies of scale was clearly in the interest of the membership of both organizations.

Pete Adelman, who has been my friend and was a very able executive director of KTA, began to experience severe health problems, making it, regrettably, increasingly difficult for him to run the daily affairs of KTA.

NTA has a very able and professional staff and, working with the KTA committee, we determined that the needed economies of scale could be afforded through the merger. We also explored in depth the needs of the memberships of both organizations and the political posture. It was clear there was harmony there.

STN: In the press release put out by NTA, it was noted that the proposed merger would allow a means of speaking “in one clear voice in Washington.” What is the underlying message in that goal?

Spilhaus: I have said that the new organization intends to speak “in one clear voice in Washington.” I mean that a stronger organization representing fabric manufacturers with an unequivocal agenda is better equipped to get its message across in Congress and the administration.

STN: Would you describe the new group as more conservative, more liberal or about the same as other nationally based textile groups in terms of your stance on issues that affect the industry, particularly trade-related matters.

Spilhaus: I am very uncomfortable with the way the terms conservative and liberal are used, especially since I come from Boston. Rather than put ourselves in one of those vague semantic boxes I would prefer to say we intend to speak forcefully on behalf of the domestic textile manufacturing industry.

I foresee National Textile Association’s positions mirroring recent positions of the Northern Textile Association, which center around the principle of no further opening of the U.S. textile market to foreign producers without reciprocal access for U.S. manufacturers in those markets. It is clear to us that our trading partners have not lived up to commitments to open their markets and we do not feel our government should be giving up any more ground.

STN: Does the National Textile Association plan to continue to remain a part of the broader American Textile Alliance and also to work with the American Textile Manufacturers Institute on common areas of concern?

Spilhaus: Obviously, I will take direction from our new board. However I foresee us continuing to work with the Alliance and with ATMI. I was founding chairman of the American Textile Alliance, have worked closely with ATMI throughout my career and believe strongly in the effectiveness of coalitions. Our organizations do not have unlimited resources and we will need each other.

STN: A recent proactive step NTA has taken is the formation of the Intellectual Property Working Group aimed at identifying and seeking solutions to the problem of international piracy of intellectual property in the industry. Can you provide more specifics of the reasons that led to this group’s formation, its goals and how it plans to carry them out.

Spilhaus: “Global piracy of intellectual property,” according to George Shuster, president of Cranston Print Works, Inc., “is an accelerating problem that requires more aggressive solutions or it will threaten the survival of the U.S. textile industry.”

The modern American textile industry is a high-tech, capital and intellectual property (IP) intensive industry that produces thousands of new designs every year — in fact, leads the world in design and other intellectual property development. It is an industry that employs tens of thousands of people, a significant percentage of whom are directly engaged in the development of original designs of a patentable, copyrightable or trade marketable name.

The cost to the domestic textile industry of international IP theft is huge, and, until now, incalculable. While the U.S. government does have some tools available and has taken some enforcement actions, more is needed. Our IP Committee plans to present the government with a “white paper” outlining the extent of the problem, including the cost to U.S. manufacturers, and suggestions for enhanced enforcement.

The first step is to understand the value of IP in the American textile industry and the cost of theft. To that end, NTA has designed a Textile Industry IP Survey that has been sent to manufacturers, with results expected back next month.

STN: Please review NTA’s stand on specific parts of the recently passed Trade Act of 2002; the positives and negatives of each measure, as you see it; and reaction you’ve heard from members regarding its passage.

Spilhaus: NTA opposed the Trade Act of 2002. For more than a decade we have seen, time and time again, textiles used by various administrations — both Democrat and Republican — as an industry to be bargained away in international trade talks. With the winning of Trade Promotion Authority (TPA), the current administration can now proceed to ignore textile interests in Congress.

Already we have seen evidence of lack of commitment to the promises made in order to get TPA. The language of TPA designed to protect U.S. laws against unfair foreign trade was stripped out in the final version.

The Trade Act of 2002 also contains specific textile provisions that favor importers and foreign producers over U.S. manufacturers. In particular the Andean Trade Preference and Drug Eradication Act (ATPDEA) allows the use of regional fabric at a level that is so high as to be no meaningful cap at all.

There are also innovations in the “findings and trimmings” and de minimis provisions — deviations from the language used in earlier trade bills — that appear to be designed to put domestic U.S. manufacturers of narrow elastic fabrics and spandex at a disadvantage.

The administration and the House leadership both made specific promises to require U.S. dyeing, printing and finishing of U.S. fabric. Nevertheless, in both ATPDEA and in the amendments to the Caribbean Basin Trade Partnership Act (CBTPA) a general rule of U.S. dyeing, printing and finishing of U.S. fabric is largely swallowed by the exception that allows U.S. fabric to be finished in the region if co-mingled with regional fabric.

As noted above, the regional cap under ATPDEA is meaningless, and the Trade Act of 2002 increased the CBTPA regional knit cap to nearly a billion square meter equivalents and the cap on regional fabric from Africa Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA) countries is doubled, while the absurd rule that U.S.-made fabric is not permitted in garments from AGOA countries under the regional cap was not corrected in the Trade Act of 2002.

STN: As you mentioned, the administration and GOP leadership made a list of promises to textile-state representatives last year to gain their support of trade promotion authority (fast track). How is NTA working to ensure that these promises are fulfilled?

Spilhaus: NTA believes that it is absolutely critical that the various commitments made to the industry last year by the Bush Administration be completely fulfilled. We realize that some of these commitments cannot be fully addressed for some time, such as those associated with the WTO negotiations.

At the same time, we would like to have seen significantly greater progress on many of these promises than what we have witnessed to date. We have pressed the administration to take every step available to them under current law and our existing trade agreements to benefit the domestic industry. For example, NTA has asked the administration to reach a comprehensive bilateral textile agreement with Vietnam, a large, uncontrolled supplier. We have asked the administration to use the existing safeguard mechanism with China to reinstate quotas in categories where their exports are increasing. We are also asking the administration to be mindful of product areas that have been especially hard hit in recent years, such as knit fabrics.

In addition, we are asking our allies in Congress to stay engaged in this matter. Now that we have the commitments, it’s important for our Congressional friends to continue to demand that the promises be adequately satisfied.

Fiber notes

Week of September 23, 2002

Honeywell to assist sail around world

MORRIS TOWNSHIP, NJ — The Specialty Materials segment of Honeywell announced that its high-performance Spectra® fiber, protecting U.S. soldiers and marines fighting the war against terrorism, has also been selected to be used in sailcloth on the “Tommy Hilfiger Freedom America” boat in the Around Alone 2002-03 global yacht race.

The boats launched from New York Harbor, near Ground Zero, on Sept. 15, commemorating the anniversary of the 9-11 terrorist attacks.

Spectra® fiber, made from a highly engineered polyethylene, is pound-for-pound 10 times stronger than steel and used in a variety of applications, ranging from protective body and hard armor and reinforced cockpit doors to cut-resistant industrial gloves, ropes and cordage and fishing line, according to Honeywell.

In sailcloth, Spectra® fiber has the strength to stand up to the fierce winds and massive ocean waves in the grueling solo race, yet is light enough to give the American front-runner Brad Van Liew the speed needed to win, according to Honeywell.

“When you’re sailing a yacht with an 80-foot mast, weight can make the difference between winning and losing,” said Van Liew. “Sailcloth made with Spectra® fiber is ultralight weight to give me speed, yet strong enough to take on the harshest ocean conditions.”

Around Alone is one of the most mentally and physically demanding competitive sporting events in the world. The 28,755-mile, nine-month-long sailing race circumnavigates the globe by way of the five great capes.

“Spectra® fiber is a natural for applications where performance and protection are crucial, from the Around Alone extreme challenge to the war against terrorism in Afghanistan,” said Nance Dicciani, president and chief executive officer of Honeywell’s Specialty Materials strategic business group, which makes Spectra® fiber.

Honeywell supplies many major armor manufacturers, military commands and law-enforcement agencies worldwide with materials for a wide range of armor, including Small Arms Protective Insert plates now being used in Afghanistan.

RadiciSpandex launches elastane ‘breakthrough’

RadiciSpandex said it has conquered the elastic fabric industry’s challenging dilemma. How can a converter produce deep, rich, colors in a polyester and spandex-blend fabric without disintegrating the spandex and causing streaking and spotting, while still retaining good washfastness?

Until now, this was an impossible feat, as high temperatures are required to dye polyester and high temperatures will destroy normal spandex yarn, RadiciSpandex said.

“RadiciSpandex has removed this obstacle with the invention of its Type S 45 high temperature-resistant elastane,” said Bill Girrier, vice president of marketing for RadiciSpandex. “And we are the only fiber company in the market to have this product

Type S 45 is a multi-purpose fiber specifically formulated to provide protection from the damaging effects of dyeing at elevated temperatures, he added. Available in full range of apparel fashion fabric deniers, S 45 engineered to retain its elastic properties after dyeing at high temperatures of 265&Mac251;F, he said.

Cyberknit, a division of Paul Gottlieb & Co., Inc., a high-tech fabric converter for the activewear market, is the first to adopt Type S 45. Cyberknit worked in collaboration with RadiciSpandex to develop a spandex fiber that would be heat resistant when dyeing microdenier and spandex.

“We are thrilled with the results of RadiciSpandex heat resistant Type S 45,” said Menachem Katz, president of Cyberknit. “It has surpassed our expectations. Microdenier polyester is even more difficult to dye than regular polyester, and even this blend with Type S 45 results in dark colors that are deeper and richer, something that was not possible with conventional elastane.”

Polyester is a favored fiber in apparel. When Type S 45 spandex is knitted with microdenier polyester fiber, the combination is perfectly suited for active apparel, Girrier said. In addition to having the desirable appearance the fabric performs better than cotton, he added.

Moisture from the body is carried to the surface, allowing the fabric to dry faster, he said.

Cyberknit has adopted the fabric for activewear companies such as Fila, Hot-Chillys, Saucony and an upscale equestrian manufacturer of apparel called Ariat International, Inc. All have incorporated RadiciSpandex Type S 45 fabrics in their collections.

“Most activewear companies seek out richer colors in their collections,” Katz said. “We are happy to finally provide our customers with what they have been seeking.”

Baseball cap company teams up with Optimer

WILMINGTON, DE — What helps keep major league players cool under pressure? The American Baseball Cap Company (ABC), founded by baseball legend Branch Rickey, has teamed up with Optimer Performance Fibers to create high-performance underwear with dri-release®.

Dri-release is a unique, patented moisture-transport system that, combined with ABC’s innovative garment construction, provides athletes with freedom of movement while keeping them dry and comfortable, according to an Optimer spokesperson. And because dri-release is treated with Freshguard®, odor retention is virtually eliminated, the company said.

“Today’s hot, form-fitting baseball pants created a need for new technology advanced underwear to help keep players cool and dry,” said Robert Wolf, president of ABC. “Dri-release proves to be the finest performance fabric on the market and the players love it.”

ABC is determined to maintain the company’s commitment to offering practical, problem-solving products that help enhance the game, Wolf added. The introduction of dri-release reinforces that commitment, he said.

“We are proud partners with ABC, offering superior performance and comfort to all the major league team members,” added Barry Garlick, president, Optimer Performance Fibers. “When the game heats up, the players can confidently stay cool, dry and comfortable,”

Optimer Performance Fibers, based in Wilmington, DE, is a textile research development and marketing company. The company, founded in 1993, has a scientific staff credited with more than 100 patents and developments, including dri-release, the moisture-transporting performance fabric.


Week of September 23, 2002

IDEA04 to include technical textiles

CARY, NC — INDA, Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, announced last week that the IDEA04 trade show will be expanded to include technical textiles as well as nonwovens.

The event will take place April 27-29, 2004 in Miami Beach and will be called “IDEA04, International Engineered Fabrics Conference & Expo.”

The INDA board approved the expansion at its July meeting after receiving staff research information.

“IDEA’s expansion to include all engineered fabrics will definitely attract more customers to IDEA as the range of products increase for purchase,” said Ted Wirtz, INDAs president. “IDEA needs to reflect the marketplace, as technical textiles and nonwovens overlap. It simply makes no sense to focus only on nonwovens.”

The IDEA04 Conference program will focus on engineered fabrics for a myriad of end-uses. The IDEA Committee has been reorganized with this in mind, as each committee member is an expert in at least one end product area, INDA said.

Prior to recommending the expansion to the board, the INDA staff visited technical textiles companies to discuss the concept. Fourteen of the 15 companies said “yes” to the concept, according to INDA.

DTI extends research alliance with India firm

WILMINGTON, DE — DuPont Textiles & Interiors (DTI), a business unit of DuPont, signed an agreement with the National Chemical Laboratory (NCL) of India, extending its research alliance.

DuPont and NCL first formed the alliance in 1994, and have renewed and expanded the areas of research over the past eight years. Results from the most recent extension of the alliance, in 1999, included breakthroughs regarding the purification of terephthalic acid, a key ingredient in polyester, with the potential to deliver significant cost savings at the operating plant, according to DuPont.

DuPont Chemical buys Autofina unit

PARIS — DuPont Chemical Solutions Enterprise has completed the acquisition of the surface protection and fluoroadditives business assets of Atofina, the chemicals branch of French oil/energy conglomerate TotalFinaElf.

Financial terms were not disclosed.

With the completion of this acquisition, DuPont Chemical Solutions Enterprise becomes the largest integrated producer of fluorotelomer-based specialty products for surface protection finishes and specialty surfactants under the DuPont™ Teflon® and DuPont™ Zonyl® brands. DuPont will also offer a broadened product line with the addition of more than 40 new products, including products formerly marketed under the Atofina Forafac® and Foraperle® brands.

These combined families of protection agents — primarily used as oil, water, and grease repellents — strengthen the DuPont presence in several markets, including carpet, textile, paper, leather, firefighting foams and stone and tile protection.

Nilit, Browzwear present virtual fabric technology

NEW YORK, NY — Browzwear, a developer of real-time 3-D solutions for the fashion and apparel industry, and Nilit Ltd., the Israel-based manufacturer of nylon 6.6 fibers for fashion legwear, intimate apparel and bodywear, have completed a joint project to demonstrate Nilit Sensil™ fabrics “virtually” using Browzwear technology.

The project will enable Nilit to present new fabrics as completed virtual garments, demonstrating the draping and visual effects of fabric and color without creating a physical sample. The technology allows the display of “picture perfect” textures, featuring true-to-life draping and remote viewing through an Internet platform, Nilit said.

“Virtual fabrics can be developed faster and easier, so that programs can be implemented in less time,” said Oded Breier, marketing manager. “Initially, we are planning to use this application at trade shows.”

On the move

Week of September 23, 2002

Pillowtex appoints Gannaway president

KANNAPOLIS, NC — Pillowtex Corporation Tuesday announced the appointment of Michael Gannaway as president of the company, effective October 1.

Gannaway, currently president and chief executive officer of customer business teams and mega-brand marketing at Sara Lee Corporation, will report to Pillowtex Chairman and Chief Executive Officer David Perdue. Gannaway will be responsible for the company’s sales, marketing and merchandising efforts and will be located at the company’s headquarters here.

Gannaway joins Pillowtex after serving nearly 10 years with Sara Lee Corporation, during which he led teams that developed and implemented significant growth strategies for the Hanes, Bali, Champion, Carters, Just My Size and Polo Ralph Lauren underwear brands and directed the launch of the highly successful Wonderbra and Barely There intimate apparel lines. He has been responsible for the coordination and implementation of brand communication and advertising for the Hanes and Just My Size brands, in addition to management of all Sara Lee apparel business at WalMart, Kmart and Target.

Gannaway began his career at Dayton Hudson Corporation and later worked in sales and general management positions at Revlon and Estee Lauder.

Keefe named CIO at Russell Corp.

ATLANTA — Robert P. Keefe has been named vice president and chief information officer for Russell Corporation.

Keefe will be based here and report to Robert D. Martin, senior vice president and chief financial officer.

Prior to joining Russell, Keefe had been with ConAgra Refrigerated Foods, a subsidiary of ConAgra Foods, Inc., for six years. He served as its vice president of information services and was vice president and chief information officer for the last four years.

From 1984 until 1996, he was with Kraft Foods, Inc. holding several positions in their systems area.

Keefe earned an M.B.A. from the Graduate School of Business at Pace University and his undergraduate degree from State University of New York at Oswego.

Gnägi to succeed Stoller at Rieter

WINTERTHUR, SWITZERLAND — Peter Gnägi has been named to head the Textile Systems Division of the Rieter Group, succeeding Erwin Stoller.

Stoller moved into the position of CEO of the Automotive Systems Division vacated by Matti Paasila.

Previously, Gnägi headed the Spun Yarn Systems Business Group (staple fiber machinery), the largest business group in the Textile Systems Division.

Hartmut Reuter has been appointed of the Rieter Group.

Gnägi earned a degree in mechanical engineering from the Federal Institute of Technology in Zurich, specializing in industrial engineering. He was then employed by industrial companies in Switzerland and the United States.

He joined Rieter in 1990 and has occupied various positions in the production and development sectors of the group’s textile machinery operations. He headed the Combing Machinery Business Unit from 1992 to 1997.

Dickson joins CHT as president, CEO

CHARLOTTE, NC — Ted A. Dickson has been named president and chief executive officer at CHT R. Beitlich USA, the textile specialty chemicals and dye company based here.

Dickson joins the company after serving as president of High Point Textile Auxiliaries LLC, a High Point, NC division of Kao Chemicals Americas (KCAC).

Dickson has been involved with specialty chemical and surfactant-related markets for more than 25 years.

CHT R. Beitlich USA is a wholly owned subsidiary of CHT R. Beitlich GMB of Tubingen, Germany, the world’s largest privately held manufacturer of specialty chemicals to the textile industry.


Week of September 23, 2002

Commerce official to address group

BOSTON — Grant Aldonas, under secretary of Commerce for International Trade, will serve as featured speaker at the 148th Annual Meeting of the Northern Textile Association (NTA).

The meeting is scheduled for Sept. 22-24 at the Black Point Inn, Prouts Neck, Scarborough, ME.

During the meeting, the membership is expected to ratify the merger of NTA and the Knitted Textile Association (KTA), who recently announced this intention. The new entity will be called the National Textile Association and will represent about 175 companies.

Aldonas is responsible for managing 2,400 ITA employees and advising the Secretary of Commerce on international trade issues. His priorities include expanding export opportunities for American business, particularly small- and medium-sized and minority-owned enterprises; enforcing trade agreements to ensure that American exporters obtain the benefits of the bargain the United States reached in previous negotiations; and enforcing U.S. trade law to deter unfair trade practices.

Prior to joining the Department of Commerce, Aldonas served as chief international trade counsel to the chairman of the Senate Finance Committee. In that capacity, he advised the chairman on all international trade and economic matters before the committee.

During his tenure on the committee, the committee, the Senate and the Congress passed a number of significant trade bills, including the Trade and Development Act of 2000, a grant of permanent normal trade relations for China, legislation replacing the Foreign Sales Corporation provisions of the Internal Revenue Code and a series of tariff bills.

This year’s theme, “Safe Harbor Markets — Do They Exist?,” will look at non-traditional and non-fashion markets for American textile products.

According to Nick Hahn, managing director, Hahn International, Ltd., “Textile suppliers must find ways to make themselves indispensable to their customers — anticipating their needs and continually adding value to their own products and services.”

Hahn will be one of the speakers at this industry event. He will be joined by his colleague, J. Patrick Danahy, senior director, Hahn International, Ltd. Danahy’s career in the textile industry spans more than three decades, with 27 years of experience with Cone Mills.

Danahy also brings an extensive network of high-level industry contacts in North America, having served as past president of the American Textile Manufacturers Institute (ATMI).

Other guest speakers include the Hon. Thomas Allen, Congressman from the first district of Maine.

Jonathan Hurstfield-Meyer, NTA chairman and president of Cleyn & Tinker, Inc., will preside. He is expected to be succeeded as chairman by William Giblin of Tweave, Inc.

Karl Spilhaus, who since 1979 has headed the NTA, will be president of the National Textile Association if the merger is approved.

Board of government

OFFICERS 2001-02

Jonathan Hurstfield-Meyer
Cleyn & Tinker, Inc.
Huntingdon Que. Canada

Vice chairman
William E. Giblin
Tweave, Inc.
Norton, MA

Karl Spilhaus
Northern Textile Association
Boston, MA

Vice president
Duncan Whitehead
Vice president, R&D
Quaker Fabric Corp.
Fall River, MA

Henry A. Truslow III
Sunbury Textile Mills, Inc.
Sunbury, PA

Karl Spilhaus
Northern Textile Association
Boston, MA


Term expiring 2002

Sanford L. Archibald
The Britex Group
Bridgtown Nova Scotia, Canada

Roswell Brayton Jr.
President, CEO
Woolrich, Inc.
Woolrich, PA

Brian DeMoura
President, CEO
Interface Fabrics Group, Inc.
Guilford, ME

Walter R. Mercier
Vice president
Hanora Spinning, Inc.
Woonsocket, RI

James F. Robbins
Elastic Fabrics of America
Greensboro, NC

Term expiring 2003

Grégoire Giraud
Chairman, CEO
Narrow Fabric Industries Corp.
Wyomissing, PA

Pier Luigi Lora Piani
Warren Cop.
Stafford Springs, CT

John F. Nash
Milliken & Co.
Washington, DC

Jonathan A. Stevens
Ames Textile Corp.
Lowell, MA

Henry A. Truslow IV
Sunbury Textile Mills, Inc.
Sunbury, PA

Terms expiring 2004

John P. Bishop
Vice president, mill sales
Pendleton Woolen Mills
Portland, OR

Peter M. Hadley
Vice president
Claremont Flock Corp.
Leominster, MA

Mark Kent
President, CEO
Kent Manufacturing Co.
Greenville, SC

Gerald J. Mauretti
Engineered Yarns Company
Fall River, MA

Neil R. Tilmont
Executive vice president
Darlington Fabrics Corp.
New York, NY

Former chairman
serving as directors

Joe Gorga
Greensboro, NC

John L. Glidden Sr.
L.W. Packard & Co., Inc.
Ashland, NH

Henry A. Truslow III
Sunbury Textile Mills, inc.
Sunbury, PA

About NTA

The Northern Textile Association (NTA) is a non-profit trade organization representing more than 200 textile manufacturers and industry suppliers with operations in the U.S., Canada, South America, Europe and Asia. Founded in 1854 by New England cotton manufacturers, NTA has grown and evolved to meet the changing needs of the textile industry. Today, NTA represents every segment of the modern textile industry.


Week of September 23, 2002

NTA supports request for China quotas

BOSTON — The Northern Textile Association (NTA), in letters to the U.S. government, has stated its strong support for a request for textile quota calls on China, the group said Thursday.

The original request, made by the American Textile Manufacturers Institute (ATMI), mentioned specifically the huge disruptive increases in shipments of brassieres, knit fabric, gloves, nightwear, luggage and textured filament yarn, all of which lost quota protection on January 1.

NTA said it agreed with the request for calls on China and in particular directed the U.S. government toward the huge increases in shipments of brassieres (category 649) and knit fabrics (category 222).

NTA also urged the government to act to control the huge increase in imports from China in these categories.

The Northern Textile Association, since the 1960s has had among its members manufacturers of knitted elastic fabrics and other knitted fabrics.

With its expected merger with the Knitted Textile Association — the largest trade organization of U.S. circular knit and warp knit fabric manufacturers — and subsequent name change to National Textile Association, NTA will be the largest organization of domestic U.S. knitters.

From KTA, the organization’s membership roster would include: Absolutely Terry Co., Ames Textile Corporation, Apex Mills Corp., Arca Knitting Mills, Bayeux Fabrics, Beverly Knits, Inc., Carolina American Knits, Claridge Knits, Collins & Aikman Specialty Fabrics, Concord Fabrics, Inc., Contempora Fabrics, Domestic Fabrics, Essex Fabrics, Fab Industries, Inc., Fablok Mills, Inc., Fabrictex, Inc., Gehring Textiles Inc., Guilford Mills, Inc., Hampton Print Works, Jonathan Reid, Inc., Joshua Bailey & Co., Kellwood Company, Kellwood Company, Kenda Knits, Lee Fashion Fabrics, Malden Mills Industries, Inc., Markbilt, Inc., Master Knits, Menra Mills, Milco Industries, Milliken & Company, Native Textiles A Carisbrook Co., Novelty Textile Mills, Picture Knits, Inc., Roman Knits, Inc., Safer Textile Processing, Sextet Fabrics, Inc., Somerset Industries, Symphony Fabrics, TerroTech Knitting Mills, Texollini, Inc. and Wagner Knits.

Textile report

Week of September 23, 2002

Commerce Department releases textile report

The U.S. Department of Commerce Wednesday released the first Textile Working Group report to the Congressional textile caucus.

The 22-page report outlines the administration’s efforts in trying to improve conditions in the U.S. textile industry.

“This administration made a promise to the U.S. textile industry and its workers,” said Secretary of Commerce Donald Evans. “We take that commitment seriously. This report highlights our accomplishments to date and is the first step toward fulfilling that commitment.

“President Bush and I know that the American worker can compete in any market, given a level playing field where free and fair trade flourish.”

The Textile Working Group is an interagency group that was formally introduced by Evans in January when he outlined steps the administration would take to ensure that textile and apparel industry concerns were addressed.

The American Textile Manufacturing Institute (ATMI) lauded the efforts outlined in the report.

“Secretary Evans’ update on the Bush Administration’s efforts to help the U.S. textile industry shows that a broad array of textile issues continue to receive attention at the highest levels of our government,” Van May, ATMI chairman, said in a statement. “Indeed, we are pleased that Secretary Evans remains personally involved in leading this effort.”

In a teleconference related to the report Wednesday, Jim Leonard, deputy assistant secretary of Commerce for textiles, apparel and consumer goods industries, said the president is committed to helping the textile industry.

“I’ve heard every president and every administration make commitments to this industry,” said Leonard, a 30-year textile industry employee who previously worked for Burlington Industries. “This is the first time that I’ve actually seen strong evidence of an administration keeping those commitments.

“I know no administration can’t do everything the industry wants, but the word I’ve been using in describing what this administration has been doing is ‘responsive.’ They really are being responsive to the concerns of the industry.”

The Textile Working Group was designed to:
• ensure that textile concerns are reflected in the administration of current trade agreements and in negotiation of new agreements, especially to open foreign markets for U.S. textile and apparel products;
• ensure foreign country compliance with existing agreements;
• strengthen enforcement efforts to combat illegal transshipment;
• implement an aggressive export expansion program and facilitate utilization of trade preference programs encouraging use of U.S. textiles, such as those with the Caribbean Basin and Africa;
• achieve authorization of improved trade adjustment assistance programs;
• ensure full access to trade remedy laws consistent with international rights and obligations; and
• examine the prospects for diversification into other industries for countries overly dependent on textile exports to the United States.

“Such a comprehensive, high-level approach has long been needed,” said May, CEO of Plains Cotton Cooperative Association, Lubbock, TX. “At the same time, the update sent to Congress admits that what has been done up to this point is just a first step. Clearly, much needs to be done to establish fairness and equity in international textile trade.

“In many cases, some efforts — such as our textile negotiating objectives in future WTO trade talks, strict enforcement of current and future trade agreements and of U.S. laws against unfair trade practices — will require ongoing efforts by the United States Government and the continued support of the Bush Administration.”

May added that, since the Textile Working Group was established in January, 33 more textile plants have closed in the U.S., including six in the last two weeks. At the same time, he said, Asian exports from countries such as China, Taiwan and Korea that illegally intervene in currency markets to gain export advantages have surged to unprecedented levels.

Further, May said, the same textile export markets that were closed a year ago remain closed today and the plethora of tariff and non-tariff barriers to U.S. textile exports also remain.


Week of September 23, 2002

Administration committed to helping industry

Editor’s note: James C. Leonard III, deputy assistant secretary of Commerce for textiles, apparel and consumer goods industries, briefed reporters Wednesday during a teleconference about the U.S. Department of Commerce’s release of the first Textile Working Group report to the Congressional textile caucus. Following are excerpts of his remarks.

IN DECEMBER of last year, in conjunction with the House of Representatives’ vote on the Trade Promotion Authority legislation, Secretary of Commerce Donald Evans made a commitment to the textile and apparel industry to focus his efforts to try to improve conditions of the industry. Out of that commitment was formed the Textile Working Group, which is chaired by Under Secretary of Commerce for International Trade Grant Aldonas. The Textile Working Group is made up of senior staff members from a number of agencies and has seven sub-groups. Each of these sub-groups is designed to address a specific area of the concern for the industry.

I spent over 30 years working in the textile industry, more than 20 of those years dealing with trade issues. I’ve heard every president and every administration while I was involved during those 20 years make commitments to this industry that they were going to try to do things to help them. This is the first time that I’ve actually seen strong evidence of an administration keeping those commitments. I know no administration can do everything the industry wants, but the word I’ve been using in describing what this administration has been doing is “responsive.” They really are being responsive to the concerns of the industry.

Several weeks ago, the secretary met with a number members of the Textile Caucus to give them a status report on the work of the Textile Working Group. At that time, he promised them a written report on what that group has been doing.

We will continue to be involved. The Textile Working Group is not going away. And I think that the fact that the report is being sent to the Hill is representative of the administration’s desire not only to inform the Hill about what’s going on, but to make sure that they’re involved in the process.

I’m going to mention a few of the items that are mentioned in the report:

On export expansion: We feel very strongly that U.S. textile companies can compete globally. We have the best technology in the world, the best people in the world and some segments of the industry really are competitive globally. The home furnishings segment is one of those. I’ll mention to you that there’s a major trade show in the world that could very well have more than 100,000 buyers there. The show is in January in Frankfurt. The organizers of that show have decided to name the U.S. as partner country for next year. And that really is a big deal. It’s going to allow the industry the opportunity to show what it can do. The administration is excited about it. They’re committing additional funds. And, so, the textile home furnishing segment will be able to highlight a number of its products in this show.

Opening markets: One of the commitments the administration has made is to try to do more market openings in many countries around the world. For example, in the recently passed trade legislation for the Caribbean, for the Andean countries and for a group of African countries, there’s legislation that provides significant incentives for those countries that are going to be making apparel products to send back to the U.S. to in fact use U.S. yarns and fabrics. This is a fairly major effort. And for those countries that are capable of getting involved in these processes, we think this is very important.

Transshipment and fraud continue to be problems. Assistant Secretary Bill Lash has made a number of trips to foreign countries to let them know that the administration is serious about doing something about illegal transshipment and that the administration is committed to help in that area.

On WTO issues, the administration continues to take a hard line in Geneva on the specific issue of many exporting countries demanding that the U.S. accelerate our product integration schedule and the quota phaseout of the WTO. We are not going to do that and have made that very clear, not only to the countries involved, but also to the leadership in Geneva.

Another WTO-related issue is that some of the elements of the Textile Working Group are short term — things that we can do right now — but some of them are longer term, particularly those related to the WTO. The WTO issues are going to be going on for some time and the administration in the form of the Textile Working Group is going to continue to be involved in those WTO issues and try to be responsive to industry.

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